The Truth About Exfoliation: How Often Should You Really Do It?

Let’s talk exfoliation. It’s one of the most common questions I get as an esthetician:"How often should I exfoliate?"The answer? It’s not as straightforward as a one-size-fits-all schedule—and doing it too much might actually be doing more harm than good.

Why Exfoliation Matters

Exfoliation is one of those skincare steps that can truly transform your skin—when done correctly. At its core, exfoliation is all about removing the layer of dead skin cells that naturally build up on the surface of your skin over time. When these cells accumulate, they can make your skin look dull, rough, and uneven, and can even contribute to clogged pores and breakouts. Exfoliating helps to reveal the fresh, healthy skin underneath, giving you that smooth, radiant glow we all want.

Beyond just surface-level results, exfoliation also plays a critical role in helping your skincare products work more effectively. When dead skin builds up, it acts like a barrier, making it harder for your serums, moisturizers, and treatments to penetrate properly. By clearing that layer away, your products can absorb better, which means you’re actually getting more value out of them. Think of exfoliation as the step that helps everything else in your routine work smarter—not harder.

Exfoliation also supports your skin’s natural renewal process. As we age, the rate at which our skin naturally sheds dead cells slows down. This can lead to a buildup of dullness and a rougher texture. Regular exfoliation helps encourage healthy cell turnover, which not only keeps your skin looking fresh but can also improve the appearance of fine lines, discoloration, and acne scars over time.

Lastly, exfoliation can be a great tool for managing common skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, and uneven tone. Ingredients like salicylic acid can clear out pores and reduce breakouts, while lactic and glycolic acids can help fade dark spots and smooth texture. The key is choosing the right exfoliant for your skin and using it consistently—but not excessively.

Exfoliation is also a key part of many professional treatments—and it’s often where the real magic happens in the treatment room. Whether it’s through chemical peels, microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, or customized enzyme masks, professional exfoliation goes deeper than what you can typically achieve at home. These treatments are designed to remove dead skin more effectively and safely, allowing for more noticeable improvements in tone, texture, and clarity. Plus, when your skin is freshly exfoliated, it’s the perfect time to infuse it with nourishing serums and hydration, which I tailor to your unique skin needs. Professional exfoliation is not just about instant glow—it also sets the foundation for long-term skin health and better results between visits.

Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliation: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to exfoliation, there are two main methods: chemical and physical. Both can be effective, but they work in very different ways—and choosing the right one can make a big difference in how your skin responds.

Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to gently dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows those dead cells to slough off more easily, revealing smoother, brighter skin beneath. Common chemical exfoliants include AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid), BHAs (like salicylic acid), and enzymes (like papaya or pumpkin). These ingredients can be found in toners, serums, masks, and even cleansers. Chemical exfoliants tend to be more even and controlled than scrubs, making them ideal for sensitive, acne-prone, or aging skin. They also have the bonus of working beneath the surface to help with issues like clogged pores, fine lines, and dark spots.

On the other hand, physical exfoliation involves manually sloughing off dead skin cells using a tool or a gritty texture. This could be anything from a facial scrub with small particles, to a washcloth, exfoliating brush, or professional treatments like dermaplaning or microdermabrasion. Physical exfoliants offer an immediate feeling of smoothness and are satisfying to use, but they must be used with care. Harsh scrubs or rough application can cause microtears in the skin and lead to irritation, especially for sensitive or inflamed skin types.

So, which is better? The truth is—it depends on your skin. Many people benefit from a combination of both methods used at different times. For example, chemical exfoliation might be your go-to weekly treatment, while a gentle physical scrub can be used occasionally to refresh the skin. If you’re unsure, starting with a mild chemical exfoliant is often safer and more predictable, especially if you’re new to exfoliation.

As an esthetician, I always evaluate a client’s skin type, concerns, and lifestyle before recommending one over the other. What works beautifully for one person may be too aggressive or ineffective for another. If you’re curious about what kind of exfoliation is best for you, I’m always happy to help guide you—whether that’s with a product suggestion or an in-studio treatment tailored just for your skin.

How Often Should You Exfoliate?

This depends on your skin type, lifestyle, and what type of exfoliant you're using. When it comes to exfoliation, more is not always better. In fact, one of the biggest mistakes I see people make is over-exfoliating their skin—thinking it will speed up results. The truth is, exfoliating too often can compromise your skin barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, breakouts, and increased sensitivity. The key is to exfoliate just enough to encourage healthy skin turnover without overdoing it.

So, how often should you actually exfoliate? For most people, 2 to 3 times per week is the sweet spot. This frequency helps to remove buildup, brighten the skin, and keep pores clear without stressing your skin out. But this number isn’t universal—it really depends on your skin type, lifestyle, and the kind of exfoliant you're using.

If you have sensitive or dry skin, once or twice a week is usually plenty, and it’s best to stick with gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid or enzyme-based products. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, exfoliating 3 times a week with a BHA like salicylic acid can help keep pores clear and prevent breakouts. If your skin is mature or dealing with uneven tone, regular chemical exfoliation (2–3 times weekly) can help boost cell turnover and improve texture over time.

Of course, if you’re using exfoliating treatments prescribed by a dermatologist, or strong active ingredients like retinoids, your skin might need less exfoliation. The best approach is to start slow, observe how your skin reacts, and adjust as needed. And always, always follow exfoliation with hydrating and barrier-repairing products—plus sunscreen during the day, since freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to UV exposure.

If you're using prescription-strength exfoliants (like retinoids), you’ll want to exfoliate less frequently and stick to hydrating, calming routines in between.

To recap...

Normal/Combination Skin:

2–3 times per week, alternating between chemical and physical (if tolerated).

Oily/Acne-Prone Skin:

3 times a week with a gentle BHA like salicylic acid can help unclog pores.

Dry or Sensitive Skin:

1–2 times per week max, using gentle exfoliants like lactic acid or enzyme-based options. Avoid rough scrubs.

Mature Skin:

2 times per week with chemical exfoliants to promote cell turnover without irritating the skin barrier.

Signs of Over-Exfoliation

While exfoliation is an important part of a healthy skincare routine, doing it too often—or using products that are too harsh—can lead to over-exfoliation. This happens when the protective barrier of your skin becomes compromised, and instead of looking radiant, your skin starts sending distress signals.

One of the first signs of over-exfoliation is redness or irritation. Your skin may feel hot to the touch, look inflamed, or become noticeably more sensitive, even to products you’ve used without issue before. You might also experience tightness, stinging, or a burning sensation, especially when applying moisturizers or serums. This is your skin’s way of telling you it’s lost some of its natural defenses.

Another major sign is dryness and flakiness. If your skin starts to peel or feel rough despite using hydrating products, it could be because you’ve stripped away too many protective oils and skin cells. Ironically, over-exfoliating can also cause breakouts. When the skin is irritated and its barrier is weakened, it can become inflamed, leading to clogged pores and acne flare-ups.

Long-term over-exfoliation can lead to increased sensitivity to sun exposure and environmental stressors. You may notice your skin reacting more easily to things like cold weather, heat, wind, or even water. If your skin is in a constant state of inflammation, it won’t be able to heal or regenerate properly, which can slow down your progress toward your skin goals.

If you suspect you’ve overdone it, the best thing to do is take a break from exfoliants and focus on calming, hydrating ingredients like aloe vera, ceramides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. Once your skin feels balanced again, you can slowly reintroduce exfoliation—but in moderation and with the right products for your skin type.

Recovery Routine for Over-Exfoliated Skin

• No exfoliating for at least 7–10 days.

• Avoid hot water, steam, and harsh scrubs.

• Drink plenty of water and get good sleep—skin heals best when you're rested.

• Reintroduce active ingredients one at a time and no more than 2–3 times per week once your skin is stable.

  
  

1. Simplify Your RoutineFor at least a week (or until your skin calms down), strip your skincare down to the essentials: a gentle cleanser, hydrating toner or mist, a barrier-repairing moisturizer, and SPF during the day. Avoid active ingredients like exfoliants, retinol, and even vitamin C.

2. Use a Gentle Cleanser

Look for a creamy or gel-based cleanser that doesn’t strip your skin. Avoid anything with strong acids or fragrance.

3. Rebuild the Skin Barrier

Your skin barrier is your first line of defense—support it with ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol-rich moisturizers.

4. Soothe with Serums (Optional)

If your skin can tolerate a serum, look for calming ingredients like niacinamide, aloe, panthenol, or hyaluronic acid. Avoid anything that tingles or stings.

5. SPF is Non-NegotiableOver-exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage. Wear a gentle, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every day, even indoors.

Pro Tips from the Treatment Room

• Always follow exfoliation with hydration—your skin will be more receptive to serums and moisturizers.

• SPF is a must. Exfoliation makes your skin more sensitive to UV damage.

• More isn’t better. A gentle, consistent routine will always outperform a harsh one.

Final Thoughts

Exfoliation is a powerful tool in your skincare arsenal—but like anything powerful, it needs to be used wisely. Listen to your skin, ease into new products, and when in doubt, ask a professional (I’m always here to help!).